Watch the descent into surfing madness of Mark Matthews as he follows Taj Burrow into the West Australian Maelstrom known as The Right.
In this video Matthews cops a 45 second hold down as a result of trying to capture the ultimate turds eye view as he is flushed inexorably to the very bottom of the indian ocean. Sure you can sit there in your living room and be all judgemental saying awwwe it’s only 45 seconds I can hold my breath that long easy. Well sure, even an emphysema sufferer could proably manage that. Now try doing it while the All Blacks forward pack is trying to turn your skin around back to front on your skeleton and the entire Indian ocean does its best to force its way into your every orifice.
Under conditions like that where everything is black and you can’t work out which way is up every second feels like a minute. Trying to stay calm when you can’t imagine you will ever make it to the surface is one of the most terrifying experiences anyone could go through. To give you some perspective The Surf Nomad has thrown together a little playlist from the Billabong XXL showing a couple of nice wipeouts at The Right shot from outside in the channel.
Now tell us how well you can hold your breath.